Advancing and retreating like a huge caterpillar, Franz Josef Glacier is one of a number situated in the permanent snowfields of Westland National Park. Flanked by dense rainforests and backed by towering snow covered peaks of the Southern Alps Mountains it is thought to be the most scenic. Descending 11km from 3000 metres to only 300 metres, nowhere else in the world do glaciers approach so close to the sea.

It was on top of this giant snowdrift that we took a guided day walk with glacier guides. With regular stops for lessons in glaciology the walk over ice-eroded rock fragments to the glacier terminal took the best part of an hour though on first appearances it looked closer. From that distance it bore a strong resemblance to a snowball that had rolled down the hill and shattered at the base of it leaving a cracked, exposed face, though we were soon to realise that it was much more than that. Trudging up sculptured steps in an almost vertical wall with rocks and jagged outcrops mingled amongst ice crystals, we endured the most gruelling part of the day. Below us rushing glacier melt-off emerged from a cave at the base of the face. Above us lay the hike of a lifetime.

From the top of the face we meandered through valleys and peaks of ice that more closely resembled meringue than a snowdrift now. We followed the guide as he skirted round the side of ice walls and squeezed through narrow glass-like ice cracks. It was in one of these passageways that I got my foot stuck and had to be ungracefully pushed through. Transversing the snow ravines and icy crevasses, we trekked over this lava flow of snow for several hours. Suddenly we had reached the first ridge and realised the sheer expanse of ice and freshly fallen snow that still lay between us and the summit. But it was time to retrace our steps and head back. Just as well - my now aching limbs cried out for a nice hot spa!

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